Sunset Beach, Hawaii, 1967. Sunset Point on the North Shore is a powerful magnet for waves as well as surfers.
A beachfront child, LeRoy Grannis was taken swimming and bodysurfing by his father, as early on as the age of five. Addicted to the rush, he soon after took a piece of wood and turned it into a bellyboard, riding the waves of Florida, his mother’s home state. One DIY board led to another, until he started borrowing boards from other surfers, and then could actually afford his very own.
Surfing had such a hook on him that, growing up, he had to struggle to keep the balance between his obsession, work and family life. As a photographer, he dedicated most of his time in capturing what he loved best, the American subcultre of surf that had carved him into the artist he became.
From catching the perfect wave at San Onofre to dramatic wipeouts at Oahu’s famed North Shore, from the emerging surf lifestyle, “surfer stomps” and hoards of fans at surf contests to board-laden woody station wagons along the Pacific Coast Highway, this is an iconic depiction of what free summer fun is all about.
Surf Photography Hardcover, clothbound with 2-color silk-screen illustration and bellyband, 17.2 x 24 cm, 400 pages