Why everyone is obsessed with Vetements

Why everyone is obsessed with Vetements

Demna Gvasalia, the unexpected king of avant-garde fashion nowadays makes headlines in mysterious ways.

Having already trolled the corporate power with his menswear show for Balenciaga Gvasalia “took it one step further for his own line by sending out ‘real people’ with streetwise personalities on his catwalk” reports Vogue.

“But Gvasalia’s version of reality is more, well, real – even if it was grounded for autumn in stereotypes. ‘Pensioner’, ‘Bro’, ‘Broker’, ‘Stoner’, ‘Tourist’, ‘Hooligan’ – each show attendee’s invitation comprised a form of ID (driving license, passport) gifting them a new titular persona which then corresponded with an individual look on the catwalk” reports the magazine.

This and other creative elements which Gvasalia brought into the fashion industry are to blame for the sudden and explosive rise of Vetements -the Parisian “design collective” which presented its first collection just a couple of years ago.

Why everyone is obsessed with Vetements

“And yet, it’s everywhere: covered in Vogue, worn by street style stars like Chiara Ferragni and Miroslava Duma” adds Racked on the mystery that Vetements is.

Pronounced vet-MAHN it means “clothes” in French. A straightforward take on the fashion circus Vetements’ head designer is Gvasalia whilst the rest of the collective remains totally anonymous.

“Gvasalia’s professional background includes senior design roles at Louis Vuitton (working under both Marc Jacobs and Nicholas Ghesquière) and Maison Martin Margiela (where, notably, the design team is also anonymous). It’s believed that his Vetements cohorts are former colleagues as well as classmates from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp” reports Racked on the legacy of the school which presented us with other avant-garde players of the industry –eg. Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester et al.

“I went literally because it was the only school I could afford. At the time it was 500 or 600 euros a year” told the Georgia-born Gvasalia to Business of Fashion. After seven years of “a gypsy lifestyle” Gvasalia settled in Germany before entering the design school in Belgium.

“The way we work is very intuitive. We always work on one garment at a time. If we spend more than 20 minutes on it, we just cancel it because it doesn’t feel right” he explained to BoF. “I always look to the example of Comme des Garçons for what we want to do” he says of Vetements power game in fashion. His rules do apply ever since Vetements debuted their creations in 2014. Are you in or out?

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