Financial Times on Lucas Ossendrijver, Lanvin’s menswear maestro

Financial Times on Lucas Ossendrijver, Lanvin’s menswear maestro

“During his 12-year tenure at Lanvin, designer Lucas Ossendrijver has become the master of seductive hybrid design” writes FT’s Stuart Husband on the designer’s secret of never-ending success.

In the feature Ossendrijver speaks of his task -“I’ve always thought my role as a designer is not about decoration, it’s simply to design- and the inevitable seduction of the fashion crowd with his “remarkable tenure at Lanvin”.

 “His father ran a construction business and Ossendrijver has brought an engineer’s eye along with the curiosity of a self-confessed ‘menswear nerd’ to bear on the cornerstones of the male wardrobe. His three-button suits, reworked overcoats and leather bomber jackets are as timeless as they come, but he’ll also deploy creases and pleats to create a new jacket silhouette, or cut a duffel coat so that it’s shaped like a cocoon” writes Husband of Ossendrijver’s extremely successful reign in the French fashion house. Lanvin confirmed to the FT that menswear sales have increased 40 per cent over the course of Ossendrijver’s reign and that’s stunning.
“When they first hired me, they said they wanted a wardrobe for men” says Ossendrijver. “This wasn’t about fast fashion. The whole idea when I started was about evolution, slowly modifying and slowly adapting, because that’s how men buy clothes; they don’t change every season, and they don’t want to be frightened off, so you can’t push things too far, too fast. Though I think this has changed a lot in the past few years; when I started, men would never admit to going shopping, or even taking an interest in clothes, but the internet has really helped break this down. And men’s fashion has become fashionable, which wasn’t the case a decade ago. Businesswise, that’s a good thing, but as a designer, I’ve become more aware of the need to position the brand in a very distinct way, for people to understand it, or they lose interest… There are a lot of demands on people’s attention these days, so your story has to be strong.”
Read more on Lanvin’s menswear leader her.

Photograph by Léa Crespi via How to spend it