Eight designers to join Moncler Genius superpower project  

Italian luxury coat and knitwear maker Moncler said on Wednesday it will tailor the pace of its collections to younger and more fickle customers with a speedier strategy reports Reuters.
Moncler signalled a change in November, ditching its two ready-to-wear catwalk clothing lines Gamme Bleu and Gamme Rouge and parting ways with its designers, designed by Thom Browne and Giambattista Valli, respectively.The Italian house will collaborate with eight new creative directors on several collections of its jackets and knitwear, cutting the time to get them into shops.

Dubbed Moncler Genius it is part of Moncler’s Genius Building project with the tagline “One House Different Voices.”

Valentino’s creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli; stylist Karl Templer who will curate Moncler 1952; Sandro Mandrino for Moncler Grenoble; Simone Rocha; Craig Green; Noir Kei Ninomiya; Hiroshi Fujiwara for Moncler Fragment, and Francesco Ragazzi for Moncler Palm Angels are the people to breathe new air to this social media savvy project.

As reported, Moncler has been teasing the new strategy on social media and billboards here ahead of its show.

Genius Building follows the 10-year run of the Moncler Gamme Bleu and Gamme Rouge lines,  reports WWD.

“Moncler Genius is a vision of the future, available now. A vision beyond the seasons establishing a daily dialogue with consumers” Milan-based Moncler said in a statement.

Moncler will kick off Milan’s popular fashion week with the new project on Feb. 20 and then launch its new products monthly. It will present eight new collections, representing “the multiple voices” of the brand, a spokesperson told Reuters.

“For Moncler, this is the end of the fashion show” notes Remo Ruffini, the chairman and chief executive of the brand ever since he took control of the brand which was founded as a traditional skiwear brand in the French Alps in 1952, back in 2003.

“Think The Avengers of fashion, under the umbrella of Moncler, in a project called Genius” comments Vogue on the newly unveiled superpower project. “A couple of years ago I saw this world is really changing. This world is really much more fast. I don’t think there are seasons anymore, and I don’t think that shows [that look forward] six months’ time really help with the customer. And I said we have to do something new, I wanted to change the model of the business” adds Ruffini.

“Moncler’s new strategy might sound radical—and at first, a little overwhelming—but in a way the brand is going full circle. The year after he purchased Moncler in 2003, Ruffini began introducing collaboration capsules with Junya Watanabe, Nicolas Ghesquière, and Fendi that helped catalyzed the brand’s revival under his watch” reports Vogue.
“The spirit of the project is something daring: It emphasizes the value of creativity and talent. It is something challenging for me to work with totally different materials and the totally different DNA of the brand. Yes, it was like stretching my legs. The other designers are very interesting. But I said yes at the very beginning before I knew who they were. I’ve known Remo for some time, and I appreciate his way of thinking and managing the company. I felt the way Remo was going to manage this project would be authentic. He asked me to do this project under my own name so [for the collection] I think I had to go back to my personal roots in terms of aesthetics. He gave me total freedom to choose to do men, women, whatever I chose. [Note: Although mostly womenswear, Piccioli has designed one men’s piece that will be available in six variations.] I wanted to experiment with an idea of purity . . . and I wanted to use Moncler as a language to express that idea. For me purity means something that is close to the essence of things. When you solve the complexity of things you arrive at the simplicity. When you take everything out, what you get is more” adds Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli.
“What I’ve already found from the capsules is that Moncler gives you free rein; they are genuinely interested in your interpretation. And they don’t mind developing ideas and exploring different options before everything is signed off.  Plus, the level of technical know-how—what they are able to do in their factories—has been massively eye-opening for a young, independent London brand like us. Even on a show piece that perhaps nobody would end up wearing, everything is finished impeccably. At first [for the Genius project] they hinted that they were going to restructure the way Moncler works. Remo was saying he wanted to change the format to fit modern times. We’ve created something that will allow us to approach presenting a collection in a very different way to a show, I just hope it works on the day! Of course, I know Simone from London—she was two years above me at Saint Martins—so I was really happy when they said she was part of this. I’m also particularly interested to see what Noir [Kei Ninomiya] does, but it will be fascinating to see how all of the participating designers interpret the brand” notes Craig Green.
Cover photo via Instagram / @moncler